Om du har bronsborste så är det från den
Har du plastborste så blir det minimalt om su skulle ha ett mässings-borst-fäste.
Det är från pipan tror jag
Det kanske inte är lönt att få den helt ren ... , drt kan ju vara lite porer och så som kopparen sitter i ... och då är det ju kört med
vita lappar
Du kan ju köra en sväng med elektronisk rengöring...
En sådan hä copparlösare har jag byggt och den fungerar utomordentligt.
De ändringar jag gjort är att ha en rostfri stång, jag använder en batterieliminator istället för batteri och istället för spacer ringar
har jag lindat stången 0,50 fiskelina med cirka ett varv per 3 cm.
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Copper Removing Device
Posted By: Flame
Date: Monday, 8 May 2000, at 6:17 p.m.
I found this out on the net and thought I might share it with you guys. I know its sort of long but I found it interesting. Any comments on this device?
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Based upon an earlier explanation of this method posted here, I built my own and what I believe to be improved version as follows:
1. Bought a 3' piece of piano wire at an RC airplane shop (large enough in diameter to be rigid and self supporting when stood on one end). $0.32
2. Bought a bag of 25 round plastic beads at Hobby Lobby. They're conveniently sold in metric (millimeter) dimensions. I bought 6mm size to fit in the smallest bore I was interested in using this device on -- 6.5mm. $0.50
3. Bought bag of assorted sizes of small corks at Hobby Lobby. $1.00
4. Bought a bottle of _clear_ ammonia at Walmart. $1.89
5. Already had a black plastic D-size cell holder with red and black leads designed to hold two cells (3VDC total). Also, I had two alligator clips. Both of these items can be purchased at Radio Shack.
6. Already had two cheap D cells bought on sale at Radio Shack. Just buy two (or more) cheap-as-possible D cells somewhere. No need for expensive brands/types.
7. Soldered alligator clips to leads from battery pack. Crimping the clips on will work, too, but will not be as durable.
8. Slid beads onto piano wire at 6" intervals. In my case, I had to drill out holes in beads slightly to allow them to have tight friction fit on piano wire. They act to hold the wire away from contact with the bore along its entire length (to avoid a short circuit).
9. Removed rifle bolt an put cork into chamber. Pressed down gently with screwdriver or cleaning rod from breech end to seat cork and seal chamber.
10. Put piano wire with spacer beads into bore. Lowered it gently against cork in chamber.
11. Slowly poured ammonia into bore until it reached the top.
12. Wrapped folded paper towel around muzzle end and held in place with rubber band. This will absorb the ammonia which will slowly foam out of the muzzle after the battery pack is connected.
13. Leaned the muzzle against something to hold the barrel vertical enough to avoid spilling the ammonia in the bore.
14. Attached the battery pack with alligator clip on red lead going to front sight and black going to piano wire.
15. Mild foaming action started slowly and continued throughout process.
16. 45 minutes later, disconnected battery pack.
17. Removed piano wire from bore and drained out ammonia. Gently punched cork out of chamber using cleaning rod from muzzle end.
18. After wiping the black crud off of the piano wire, you'll see a copper plating from whatever copper was in your bore. The end closest to the chamber will have the thickest, most noticeable layer (for obvious reasons).
I've used the same batteries twice, now, on two different k98's. I'd cleaned and cleaned the barrels to remove copper the conventional way and the patches continued to come out green. After using the method described above, no matter how long I let the copper solvent soak in the bore, the patches came out showing absolutely NO evidence of copper fouling.
The piano wire electrode should last indefinitely. The ammonia purchased is probably enough for a hundred barrels. The corks should last indefinitely if care is taken. The D cells are the only thing of significant cost that you'll have to replace when you notice that the ammonia's foaming action no longer occurs.
If you're wondering why I didn't use a DC wall transformer instead of the D cells (even though I own an extensive assortment of the adapters), I didn't want to take the time and additional money to buy an in-line fuse holder and the correct rating of fuse to protect the wall transformer from an accidental dead short. I worked mostly with what I had on hand. However, if you plan on cleaning MANY bores, it might be more cost effective to buy an adjustable-voltage DC wall transformer with a 3VDC setting (a good, high-current-rating one is about $12.95 at Walmart). However, to avoid frying your investment, I'd recommend an in-line fuse holder and a fast-blow fuse rated at 75% of the rated maximum current for the transformer.
, Du är nog den förste jag vet om som verkligen har testat K2r 
